We Could Live Here!!!

Gene looks out over lower Arcos from the wall at the park.

Arcos de la Frontera

It only took a day to know that this pueblo blanco would be our home for awhile.

Spanish Cooking School

Almuerzo es listo!
Who Says Spanish cooking lessons are expensive? Francisca & Laurie make dinner.

10 Weeks in Europe - Part 8 - Random Thoughts

1. Favorite activity: Wandering around the streets, especially the little alley streets, just being there. I know I was always either walking around with my mouth hanging open at the sights or just smiling stupidly in my excitement at seeing these places. It was awesome. We did an amazing amount of just walking around. Upon arrival in each new place, one of us would say, “We made it! We’re in .......” We really were like a couple of kids.

2. Other Favorite Activity: Drinking coffee! It was fun to observe the different customs surrounding coffee drinking – and figuring out how to ask for what we wanted. I think our biggest spending item may have been coffee drinking! But what a great way to people watch! We were intrigued to learn that in Spain there is one price for a cup of coffee at the bar (low), another for a coffee at a table, and a third price for coffee at an outside table (highest). The locals walk in, stand at the bar, down their caffeine fix and leave. It appears that they need their fix several times a day, but it has little or nothing to do with socializing. Now that I think about it, the 3-tier system wasn’t just for coffee. It was for everything, including food.
3. Awesome Architecture: I was struck by the difference in the architecture. In Spain and Italy, the buildings were awesomely detailed and artistic. It seemed that their creators simply wanted to impress the world with the most complex, artistic, expensive structures in the world (“Where did they get all that marble?” / “How did they DO that?”). If they were also strong and secure, so much the better. But as we traveled to Austria and Germany, and to some extent the Czech Republic, it seemed that the buildings’ designers had been aiming for big, powerful, and secure. If they were also beautiful, that was o.k. Usually they were. But many in Austria and Germany seemed strictly utilitarian. Interestingly, clothing styles seemed to follow a similar concept! After the classy dressers of Italy, Austria seemed downright homespun.
4. Getting Around: The only way to travel extensively through Europe is by train. Eurail pass in hand, we felt the freedom of being able to go anywhere, although there were additional charges for sleeping cars or reserved seats, and a separate pass was required for the Czech Republic. The trains were (almost) always on time and it was a very relaxed way to travel. There were all different sorts of seats and accommodations on board, but almost all of them were very nice, even luxurious in some instances. Some of our more interesting experiences were related to the train system. In the larger cities we used the Metro systems (not included on the Eurail pass, but very inexpensive) to get around everywhere easily. There were only 3 places we wanted to go where we couldn’t get to by train, but took the bus, which was also enjoyable and convenient.
5. Carrying Stuff: The only way to carry your stuff around Europe is by backpack. We saw many people struggling up stairs in train stations and metro stations (yes, some have escalators, but not all) and in hotels (yes some have elevators, but not all) carrying or dragging suitcases. Smiling, but trying not to gloat, we “bounced” up the stairs with all our stuff on our backs. By the way, the ground floor in Europe is zero, not one, so if they tell you the room is on the second floor, that means there are two flights of stairs to climb!
6. Packing: The only way to backpack for an extended period of time is to drastically limit the amount of stuff you take along. My full backpack weighed 12 pounds when we left home. Any more than that would have been too much for me. Do you really need more than 3 outfits to wear? We won’t discuss what it weighed upon our return, with the cookbooks, art books, flyers and picture postcards, as well as the wine and cheese purchased on the last day, but I have a tip for the next trip: Paper weighs a lot. Take along a few big manila envelopes and mail the accumulated paper back home to yourself every couple of weeks. Wish I had thought of that before.
7. Guidebooks are Heavy: We read numerous guidebooks before we left, then tore out just the parts we thought we needed to take with us. I didn’t want to throw them away once we had been to each area, so I kept carrying them around. Another time, I would mail them back home to myself.
8. Lodging: Spending a lot of money on lodging is not necessary in most places. Also, there is no direct connection between cost and quality. We always took rooms with private baths, and the rooms were always more than acceptable. Most were really nice, and had been recently renovated, with nice modern bathrooms. Our lowest cost room was 39 Euro ($48 US), and that was one of the nicer places we stayed. Although we paid much more in some places, it was mostly because we were too lazy to look around for a better price, or didn’t want to spend the time walking around looking. The lines between hotels, pensiones, and hostels were blurred, with many calling themselves “pension/hotel,” or “hostel/hotel,” although generally speaking, the “hotels” had things we didn’t really need (tv, phone, etc). We didn’t want to be tied to an itinery, so didn’t make advance reservations, except for our first stop, in Madrid, and for semana santa in Rome. There was never a problem finding a good place to stay.
9. Tourist Information Centers: Every town, large and small, seems to have at least one information center, usually in the train station. They can provide a wealth of useful information, as well as help you find a place to stay. Some will call and make a reservation for you (often for a small charge), some will just give you lists, and some, like the wonderful lady in Sorrento, will chat with you about the different hotels, call over and have them hold a room for you at the one that sounds best until you can walk there (at no charge), and just generally make your arrival pleasant.
10. Food: Spending a lot of money on food is not necessary in most places. Our favorite foods in Spain were found in the tapas bars, which I especially adored because even though I don’t have a big appetite, I was able to try lots of little things. And there was always a fabulous variety of delicious things to try. In Austria, we found a wonderful place with various little munchies on small slices of bread. There may have been 3 dozen types to point and choose from, and they were all good!
11. What Time is Dinner?: We found that every town we visited had different customs on meal times. It helps to ask the locals or at the hotel about this when you arrive. More than a few times we found everything was closed at the time that we decided we were hungry. We always carried around snacks (and wine!) but that didn’t help if you were craving pasta! In one town in Spain, we realized that we had to eat early in the evening. Then arriving in the next town at around six in the evening, we decided we were hungry. There was not one eating establishment that opened for dinner before 8:30. Every country and every town in each country seemed to be different on this.
12. Where Shall We Eat?: Asking the locals where they eat is the best way to find good places. Not only will their recommendations be cheaper, but the food will be way better. An effective alternative, and the one we actually usually used, is to wander the streets until something tickles your fancy. Our favorites were always the little hidden away, or hole-in-the-wall places that weren’t mentioned in the guidebooks.
13. Art Education & Audioguides: If I was doing it again, I’d try to do some reading on art and art history before the trip. I loved getting to see so much famous art, but it would have been more interesting if I had understood more. I was overwhelmed by the size and detail of much of the old art. I was also shocked at the deep, vivid paint colors used in some. I had expected them to look dark. I learned that some look dark because of the years of accumulated dirt and grime and stuff that was painted over them, but that the original colors were brilliant. The audioguides available at the larger museums, usually for about 3 euros, were well worth the cost.
14. Tour Busses: The Hop On / Hop Off bus tours available in most large cities were a great way to get a preliminary orientation. They provided headsets with pre-recorded information in several languages. They cost from $13 (Madrid, which also offered ½ price for seniors) to I think about twice that much in Paris. You can spend the day hopping off and then on again at any of the stops along the way.
15. Language: I’ve heard over and over again that it is not necessary to know the languages when traveling Europe because so many people speak English. While it’s true that you can almost always find an English speaker when you need one, there are times when you cannot. Especially away from the major cities, language can be a challenge, whether trying to get information on the trains or simply trying to order some food. My advice would be to learn as much language as possible, and then carry along a good translator, whether a book or electronic. We had enough Spanish to have no problems in Spain, my little bit of Italian helped some, or at least provided amusement for the locals. We didn’t stay long enough in France for me to really try out my bits of French. But in the Czech Republic, I could have starved while trying to read a menu! Austria and Germany also seemed great mysteries to me. If you’re going to stay strictly in tourist areas and eat in tourist places with menus in multiple languages, you can get by with just English, but it’s a lot more interesting when you can communicate at least a little bit, and the “local” places are always more fun than the “tourist” places.
16. Weather: We wanted to beat the hordes of tourists and heat of the summer, so we left on March 24th. On March 26th, after observing what other people were wearing in Madrid, I bought myself a warm black jacket (had to be black to fit in!), along with a big heavy sweater, a long-sleeved undershirt, and a pair of warm tights. A couple of weeks before our return, the weather finally got nice. I still probably wouldn’t want to go in August next time, but maybe would wait until April or so.
17. Money: We took only a small amount of cash in US $’s. We just stopped at an ATM machine every few days and got cash in the local currency. There are ATM machines everywhere. We used money belts to carry our cash, credit cards, plane tickets, eurail pass and passports. The euro makes traveling from country to country ever so much easier. The only country where we had to switch to another currency was in the Czech Republic.
18. Senior Discounts: Many places have senior discounts, even if they don’t advertise them. It’s definitely worthwhile to ask, since some can be as much as 50%. Once in a while the discounts were only for European Union residents, but in most places discounts were available for anyone over 65, or sometimes 60.
19. Meeting People: People most everywhere are friendly. Sometimes the easiest way to start up a conversation is to ask for help. Most people actually like to help strangers, especially if it gives them a chance to talk about their own country. We didn’t, I think, do enough of this. It’s easy when you’re traveling as a couple, to tend to talk to each other, in your own language, and miss some opportunities for new friends.
20. Just Do It!: Traveling Europe is such an amazing experience that I can’t believe neither of us had done it before. Of course there’s always a reason not to go: not enough money, not enough time, when I get that big promotion or that new job, maybe when the kids are grown, maybe when we retire. Or we’re too old, or too something else. We met all kinds of people from many different places, and they were all having fun. We met very young people traveling on their own, we met young couples traveling with as many as four small children. We met people in their 80’s and 90’s. They were all traveling independently and having the time of their lives. Some stayed at hostels with shared bathrooms and bought food at the grocery stores, from street vendors and inexpensive hole-in-the-wall places. Some stayed at upscale high priced hotels and ate in the more expensive restaurants. They were all having their own brand of high adventure. If there were anything I would change, it would be to go much sooner. I would have loved to have taken my kids when they were young. At the time, of course, I thought I couldn’t do it, didn’t have the time, didn’t have the money. Now I know that, if I had it to do over again, I would find a way. One thing that Gene and I realized when we started talking last year about doing this trip, was that we didn’t want either of us to be in Europe for the first time someday saying, “Gee, Gene would have loved this,” or “Wow! Laurie would have loved this.” When we started planning the trip, we thought that this would be the trip of a lifetime, so we’d better do it now. We thought we would go to one or two places so that we would have time to get to know them a little bit. We ended up going to eighteen cities in six countries. Now that we’ve returned home, all we can talk about is where we will go next year!

The Wanderers Return - 10 Weeks in Europe - Part 7

Return to Spain
Upon our arrival in Madrid, we walked to another track and boarded Spain’s AVE high speed train for Seville! Paris to Seville was by far the longest leg of our trip, but we enjoyed it thoroughly. Seville is a beautiful city, another one that we wouldn’t mind revisiting for a longer period. We went to a flamenco performance, did a lot of walking, drank lots of coffee, and of course Sangria, ate tapas to our hearts’ content, discovered a used book store, and generally just had a great time, wandering around the little streets. After Seville, we bussed to Arcos de la Frontera, a beautiful

little white village, hanging off the sides of a cliff. We spent a couple of days wandering around this quaint old village, drinking beer, eating caracoles, being happy. We wandered into this busy little bar one afternoon and saw the signs that we had seen everywhere else that day in Arcos, “Hay Caracoles.” We also noticed that every time the server went to the bar to pick up more orders, he was yelling “Mas caracoles!” We didn’t know what it was, but had to find out, so we ordered “Caracoles Y dos cervezas, por favor.” We were served glasses of tiny snails in a hot liquid. Snails sounded good, but the liquid was, I thought, suspicious. Since it was necessary to drink the liquid in order to get to the snails, I bravely started drinking. Pretty good stuff! We hated to leave this little cliff-hanging village and their wonderful caracoles, but were off next for another cliff-hanger, Ronda. Beautiful Ronda! We had a memorable lunch at a little table sitting cliffside. Except it wasn’t really cliff-side; it was more like our table was on a rock that to extended out over the great ravine, the deepest I had ever seen. Since I’m deathly afraid of heights, I didn’t even think I’d be able to do it, but it was a beautiful day, and a fabulous lunch, and I’m ever so glad we were there! A young American couple at a nearby table heard us talking about the trains and busses and came over to talk. They had rented a car because they had been told it was the only way to get around to the villages of Andalucia. They hated doing all that driving, and didn’t even know about the busses, which go everywhere that the trains don’t go. The last time we saw them, they were off to find out where they could turn their car in.
By now there was a sadness seeping in on us, knowing that our adventure would soon come to an end. But we were excited about our next stop, Granada, and the Alhambra. We briefly discussed skipping it, in order to scale back our last week and relax more. Fortunately we talked ourselves out of that thought and spent two days exploring that magical place. Like Florence, the hillside villages and most of everything else we saw, it’s indescribable. You read about these places, you see pictures, but you can’t believe how incredible they really are.
I don’t know how many times I asked during our trip, “But how did they do that?” Majestic buildings of marble, some of which had taken centuries to build, domed roofs and other details that seemed to defy engineering possibilities, building details and art that had consumed entire lifetimes. And buildings which hung onto the very edges of vast cliffs. So many things that seemed to me unreal. I couldn’t get enough of it, and almost everywhere we visited, I really wanted to stay longer.
After Granada, we returned to Madrid, and it truly felt like a homecoming, returning back to the wonderful city where our adventure had started almost 70 days earlier! We spent our wonderful final trip days relaxing and wandering around seeing and doing a few things we’d missed the first time through, when it had been cold and rainy, and truthfully miserable, although we had tried not to admit that, since we were having so much fun in spite of it. We had lunch and drank sangrias at a cafe in the incredible Plaza Mayor. We strolled the beautiful paseos. We agonized over whether to buy some of that fabulous Spanish ham and hope that we could get through all the checkpoints entering England, the US and Costa Rica returning home. We decided it wasn’t worth the risk, and just bought some wonderful cheese and wine (by the way, did you know you can buy acceptable wine in Spain for as little as $1US a bottle?!). I’ve been regretting it ever since, since unlike our trip going over, we never seemed to get checked on the way back! I bought another tapas cookbook. And then, suddenly, and way too soon, it was time to come home. But we have so many memories, and so many dreams for the next trip. It was an awesome experience, and I can only wish we had done it much sooner. But then, we’ve both said all along that we’re trying to make up for all the things we never got around to doing during our “wasted youth!”

The Wanderers Return - 10 Weeks in Europe - Part 6

France to Revisit a Family Connection
Next we were off to Metz, France for a very special project. Gene’s Uncle Nello had lived in a hotel in Metz during WWII, 60 years ago.

He has often talked about the year he spent there and what a beautiful place it is. He used to talk about taking a trip back one day, but in the past couple of years has been saying the trip would be too much for him, although he’s a very hardy 90 years old, and probably healthier than I am! So we had decided that our trip had to include his town and his hotel in France. Upon our arrival at the beautiful train station in Metz, we walked across the plaza to an outdoor cafe for coffee. We spread our map out on the table and asked the waiter if he could point out where we were on the map. He did so, and asked us where we were going. When we told him the Hotel Royal, he laughed, and said it was right around the corner! We got a room at the hotel, on the same floor that Uncle Nello had lived on, spent a couple of days wandering around the streets of that beautiful little city, stopping to have coffees (!) and taking a ridiculous number of pictures. As we started reporting back to Gene’s uncle via e-mail, he started remembering all sorts of things he had forgotten (like that the hotel was only a block away from the train station), and got very excited about our trip, asking us to report as much detail of our trip as possible! I guess we got him started, because he and Gene’s aunt have now decided to come visit us in Costa Rica (something we could never talk them into before) and will be here for 2 weeks in July! After our amazing stay in Metz, it was time to head back to Spain for the final weeks of our trip. We took the train to Paris, spent an afternoon there, seeing as much of the city as we could from a double-decker bus, then boarded our night hotel-train for Madrid, a delightful trip, with a private berth with our own bathroom, including shower! Our tickets included a pleasant dinner, with wine, in the dining car, as well as breakfast the next morning. We enjoyed a relaxing breakfast as we approached Madrid, talking with an interesting fellow from France, but originally from Colombia. He was on his way to Colombia to work on a documentary film he is producing.

The Wanderers Return - 10 Weeks in Europe - Part 5

Austria, the Czech Republic and Germany – Fairy Tale Land

Traveling by train from Italy to Austria, we found ourselves with a middle of the night train change and really didn’t know where we were. Eventually we found that we needed to order cafe o’lait, rather than cafe con leche or cappuccino. Ahha! We must be in France! It was a scruffy little station with strange procedures for obtaining a cup of coffee, and with stranger bathrooms. We happily continued on


to Austria.
In Austria, we visited Salzburg (which I feel we could have skipped, but everyone else who goes there seems very excited about it; I must be missing something) and Vienna, which was more beautiful than I could have imagined. Gene’s cold was still bothering him and it was still raining a lot of the time, so I spent one day wandering around seeing the sights on my own. The place is beautiful. Fairy tale buildings and parks. Music. And more good food! All in all a beautiful city that we definitely could have spent more time in.
Next on our agenda was Prague! Now I have to tell you that this whole “side trip” through Austria, the Czech Republic and Germany only happened because a zillion people kept telling us, “Oh, you must see Prague.” I’d never even thought of it as a place to go. Thank God for friends with good free advice! Prague is, I believe, the most beautiful city in the world! The beautiful architectural styles were quite different from the other places we visited. But what was fascinating was the fact that while very old, all of the buildings were so pristine that it seemed like they must have been built yesterday. There was music everywhere. And walking back over the Charles Bridge late in the evening, we had the most amazing view of the massive castle perched on the hill above our hotel. I kept thinking, “I thought Disney made this up, but it’s real and it’s enormous, like a whole town!”
We spent close to a week in Prague and would have liked to stay longer, but had other places to see and things we wanted to do, so we next took off for Germany, where we visited Freising, Regensburg, and Munich. Gene had visited these places on business and was anxious to show them to me and see them as a tourist. I had started getting the hang of beer drinking in the Czech Republic (the largest per capita consumers of beer in the world, the guidebooks told us), but refined my skills to another level in Germany, where I discovered that the “small” mug of beer is about a liter. But “it’s o.k.,” our B&B host tells us. “You can drink 10 or 12 of them without ever getting a headache or a bad stomach.” When I look at him questioningly, he says, “Really! It’s true. I’ve proven it!” So we wandered around the beautiful neighborhoods in Germany, visited beer gardens, had dinner at the oldest active brewery in the world (with some new friends from California, one of whom was originally from Germany). Wandering down a tiny alley-like street one afternoon, we noticed that every door step in front of the little houses had beautiful potted plants on and around it. Everywhere in Europe there seemed to be flowers. There may have been no room for a garden, or even a patio, but there was always room for a potted plant hanging off a wall.

The Wanderers Return - 10 Weeks in Europe - Part 4

A Ferry Ride, Sicily & the Ancient Wonders of Florence

From Salerno, we took the ferry out of Naples for Sicily. The overnight ferry trip was fun. Our room was very luxurious, with ensuite bath with shower, and sleeping at sea was relaxing. Eating in the dining room was fun once I got over my irritation that the earliest reservation we could get was for 10:30 because all of the tables at earlier sittings had already been taken by massive numbers of tour group people.

. This after trying to fight my way to the information desk with numerous fast-talking Italian speakers elbowing and pushing their way in front of me, leaning across the desk to get the immediate attention of the desk people, who were certainly not going to bother to tell them that I had been there for 20 minutes before they arrived. (Hey! I didn’t say everything about the trip was perfect!) A couple of late night glasses of wine in the bar up on the top deck after the mobs of vacationing school kids (!) had disappeared was heavenly! Arriving in Palermo early the next morning, the city appeared bedraggled and soiled. I’m sure that if we had stayed longer, or arrived under different conditions (other than lost on the waterfront not knowing where to go so early in the morning), we would have found interesting neighborhoods and things to see. But we finally found somewhere to get coffee, unstrapped our backpacks, and proceeded to figure out where else we could go. After consulting our maps and guidebooks, we headed for the train station, and a few hours later were in Cefalú, a most charming town which exists in the very shadow of the biggest rock I’ve ever seen, seeming like it might consume the town at any moment. Wow! Another wonderful town for wandering through tiny cobblestone streets, eating great food, and drinking lots of wine and cappucino. Another fabulous helpful innkeeper. An invitation to stay at the home of a wonderful Swiss couple whom we met at an outdoor cafe for no more than 10 minutes on the last day of their visit! We both fell in love with Sicily and hope to return for a longer stay.
From Cefalú, we took an overnight train to Florence, definitely the most uncomfortable train trip of our adventure. The fact that we had somehow got ourselves tickets for a compartment with 4 other people, all “sitting/sprawling” in reclining seats all night was somewhat offset by the fact that our traveling companions were friendly, fun people with whom we had some fun conversations about language and food – all of this mind you with hardly a word of common language!
Every city we visited in Italy was a fabulous experience, and I’d be hard pressed to pick a favorite, but Florence was absolutely amazing. I had no idea that so much art existed in the world, or that such awesome, huge, beautifully detailed buildings existed. The concept of all those famous ancient statues just being there outside in public for everyone to see still baffles me! Another city to totally fall in love with! We spent a week in Florence, wandering the charming narrow streets, eating good food, drinking good cappuccino and wine, visiting more museums and cathedrals and listening to music. We stayed at a the B&B Battistero (“Rooms with a View”), directly in front of the Duomo’s Baptistry. It’s a wonderful little place with only 6 rooms, and when you open your windows, you’re looking directly at the Baptistry. Amazing! Wonderful hosts, charming place, and only 3 flights of stairs to climb! An unusual little side benefit: breakfast in bed – including a boiled egg! We were there for a week and were not ready to leave. We definitely had not seen everything we wanted to see.
Florence is absolutely another city that we hated to leave and would like to visit again.
While in Florence, we also took a day trip to Pisa and gawked at the buildings, which lean even more than I had envisioned! We looked at our tentative itinerary and decided that it was more important to us to spend more time in Spain at the end of the trip than it was to spend time in Venice. So Venice ended up being just an afternoon stopover from the train between Italy and Austria. What a fascinating place! Clearly it would have been worth it to stay a couple of days, but it didn’t interest us as much as the other places on our list, so we were happy with our decision. Leaving Italy, however, was sad. We loved it. We could live there. We’ll be back.

10 Weeks in Europe - Part 3

More Train Experiences & a Bus Ride Along the Very EDGE of the Amalfi Coast!

After Rome we headed south by train to beautiful and charming Sorrento, where we had some great food and wine, stayed in a wonderful small hotel down a tiny cobblestoned alley, took day trips to Pompei and Herculeum, and where I had another interesting train experience.

From Sorrento, I took an afternoon trip to Ercolano to see the ruins at Herculeum, about 30 minutes away via the Circumvesuviana, the local train line. Returning in the late afternoon, I found myself on the green line, instead of the blue line, and ended up in Poggiomarino, a town I’d never heard of before. I calmly got a ticket to backtrack to Trecase, where I knew I could change over to the blue and get to Sorrento. Somehow I ended up all the way back in Napoli, but wasn’t concerned because I knew I could simply take the blue line from Napoli to Sorrento. I asked 3 different people on the platform to make sure I took the right train this time, since there were no signs and no markings on the trains as there were at most stations. I knew I was on the right track, but there was no way to be sure which route I was on until we passed the first “wrong” station. Comfortably settling in with my book, headed home at last, I thought, I suddenly realized we had passed Pompei, which meant I was on the green again. There was nothing to do but stay on it to Poggiomarino, and then start backtracking again. Once back in that station, asking for help in my tiny bit of Italian only helped me to determine that the man at the counter spoke no English. Luckily for me, a very kind man walked up to me and said, “You need to go to Sorrento?” He turned out to be the conductor of the train I needed to take back. He was apparently waiting for his shift to start, and told me that the train I needed to take would be there in 40 minutes. It was now about 8 pm, and of course Gene was back in Sorrento, wondering where I was. I couldn’t call him because, even if I could have figured out the phones, I couldn’t remember the name of our hotel! (And you all thought I was so organized!) The nice conductor watched me and made sure I got on the right train, and then made sure I got off at the right place and knew which train to take from the other side of the track to backtrack to Sorrento! By the time I arrived back at our hotel at about 9:30 at night, Gene said that he was beginning to get a little concerned, and figured that something like that had happened! He hadn't taken it really seriously, knowing that I would figure out what to do. We went out for a wonderful late dinner and had a great time discussing what fabulous new experiences we were racking up. Sorrento is beautiful. It’s charming. The food is great. The people are nice. We loved it. I could live there. Really!
To get to our next town, Salerno, we took a bus for the first time, rather than a train. We wanted to see the Amalfi Coast that we had heard so much about. I guess when I was reading about it and looking at the pictures, I forgot how terrified I am of heights, especially when the road from on high drops right straight down the cliff to the sea, about a mile below! Especially when the winding road is less than six inches wider than the bus! The trip was every bit as awesome as I had been told. And it was absolutely terrifying. I’m sorry to have to confess that my eyes were closed and my breathing stopped for much of the trip. And that’s the truth! We had been talking with a very charming and friendly family from Ireland while waiting for the bus, a couple and their teenaged daughter and son. We didn’t hear much from him during the bus ride, and when we reached the half-way point, in Amalfi, I found out why. He couldn’t talk while holding his breath either! I realized at this point that Gene really doesn't take me seriously. I had just finished telling him that we were taking a boat the rest of the way to Salerno because my heart couldn’t take any more of this ride. I then turned to the Irishman to discuss our heart attack problems. While we talked, Gene strolled off to get bus tickets for the rest of the trip to Salerno! Yes, we took the bus.
When we arrived in Salerno, it was cold and raining. We got off the bus and walked a few blocks to the train station and found the information center next door. A helpful attendant told us which hotels in our price range were close by. We started walking and lucked out again, finding a good place to stay about three blocks away. It was a charming old place with a wee balcony, right on the main pedestrian street and near the old quarter. It even had an elevator! We only stayed a couple of days in Salerno, the weather was wet and cold, and we were both now dealing with colds and sore throats. We didn’t see much there, but we did have some incredible food (of course) and wine. It seemed to be a charming and interesting town with lots of wandering and eating opportunities. We loved the old quarter with its charming narrow streets and hidden away restaurants. Our host at the hotel, like many other innkeepers along the way, was amazingly friendly and helpful, wanting to give us lots of advice to make sure our visit was the best it could be. He was a transplanted New Yorker of Italian descent, and both of us thought that his mannerisms made us think of a character that would be played by Dustin Hoffman as a mafia guy! Our first night there, he directed us to a wonderful restaurant in the old quarter where the locals eat. It was great, the food was wonderful, and we heard nothing but Italian being spoken at the other tables. We got there just before the dinner hour rush, and wished we had gone later, because we would have changed our orders if we had seen what other people were getting first! Lots of great-looking stuff we’d never heard of before. Can’t remember it now. Wish I’d stolen a menu. Will have to return someday. Our second night there, our host walked us to a restaurant owned by a friend and ordered for us, to make sure we got the best fish dishes in the house! Again, it was fabulous. The name of the place was “Pinocchio,” and we were waited on by Signor Pinocchio himself! No kidding! We couldn’t help noticing that the Italian couple at the next table seemed to have some problems. He, an older guy, tried to get friendlier and friendlier. Just an affectionate sort of guy, I guess. She, a much younger woman, in turn, kept backing off and looking more and more annoyed. Finally he apparently just got too darned affectionate. She jumped up, grabbed her purse, and walked out, leaving her coat behind. A few minutes later, he sheepishly paid the bill and left. Some interpersonal relationship issues are international. We couldn’t understand a word they said, but had no problem understanding nevertheless! I kind of would have liked to stay longer in Salerno, if only for the food (!), but we decided to continue south to Sicily, in hopes that the weather would be drier and warmer. We didn’t get to see much of Salerno, but we like it. I could live there. Really!

The Wanderers Return - 10 Weeks in Europe - Part 2

Getting to Italy, Trains & Rome

Throughout our grand adventure we were amazed at how well the train system worked. We could get almost anywhere, they almost always left on time, the views in many cases were awesome, and we could just sit back and relax, knowing that we would eventually reach our destination. Some of the trains had sleeping cars, bar cars and dining cars. Some of them had people who came through with snack and drink carts, like on the airlines. There were varied comfortable seating arrangements, from nice little compartments with seats for 6 people to lounge type setups with tables for card playing or eating to airplane type seats, except more spacious and comfortable. Train riding was one of the fun parts of travel. That didn’t, however, mean that all the details always worked out as expected.

. Leaving Spain turned into an interesting experience, as we arrived at the train station in Barcelona an hour ahead of time and learned that our night train had just left. The internet said the train left at 21:30, which we had verified the day before at the station when we reserved our sleeping berth. Now, with full packs on our backs, we were told that “You can’t trust the information on the internet,” and “There’s nothing that can be done. The train leaves at 20:30.” A call back to our hotel determined that they had no rooms for the night, but they knew of a small apartment nearby that we could have for the night at the same price as the hotel. So we spent the night in a charming little apartment and got to have an extra day in Barcelona!
In Italy, we first visited Vernazza, one of five little villages (the Cinque Terre) hanging off the cliff over the sea. I never had the guts to count, but I think there may have been as many as 200 steps up the 7 sets of winding rock stairways between buildings to get to our lodging house. Then we got to climb to our 3rd floor room in the charming old building. The place was awesome, and I would do it again, but I would consider skipping the 3rd and 4th courses at dinner before trekking to our room the first night! Watching the sea beat up the rocks far below made me feel like I was living in a storybook. This couldn’t be real.
After Vernazza, we headed for Rome for Semana Santa, where we got to see more amazing architecture and art and statues living outdoors. We also got to be in St Peter’s Square on Easter, along with several thousand other people, to observe the Pope blessing the world. I’m not Catholic, but nevertheless found it to be fascinating. Even more fascinating was to listen to all the Italians happily talking in little groups with their friends throughout the ceremony. Those who weren’t with friends were on the cell phones talking to their friends. Amazing. I also noticed that, in the Sistine Chapel, with signs and guards everywhere asking people to be quiet and not speak, there was the constant hum of conversation. These people just can’t stop talking! The art, architecture and history! What an experience to get to see all those places we had only read about! We spent an afternoon wandering around the Forum, where, although archaeological excavations continue, we felt we had stepped into the past. We learned that the Coliseum took 10 years to build, and that it was built to hold 50,000 spectators. We also learned that during the 100 days of opening ceremonies in AD 80, hundreds of animals and 2,000 gladiators were killed. Some knowledge you’d prefer not to have, but there’s no denying the grandness of this ancient structure. St Peter’s Basilica, the Roman Forum, the Coliseum, the Pantheon, the Vatican Museums, the Sistine Chapel, Trevi Fountain. Ancient statuary in the public streets, everywhere we looked! We spent a fun hour watching a wild woman wading in the Trevi Fountain for coins. We thought the policeman who was trying to get her out was going to end up falling in the fountain with her. He finally threw up his hands and left! Rome was an awesome experience, but after a week there, I wasn’t really unhappy to move on. Our hotel room was more than adequate, and only three flights up, but the innkeeper was a witch. It was still cold and rainy and Gene was suffering with a sore throat. I never did figure out how to say “sore throat” in Italian, but apparently my grabbing of my throat while gasping and wheezing got the point across at the farmacia, and gave them a good laugh for the day as well. We found a favorite eating spot, with great, cheap food and friendly waiters, but most of the restaurants seemed overpriced. We barely caught a thief (actually a team of two) attempting to steal my handheld PDA directly off a restaurant table in front of me. These guys were good. One of them put some kind of flyer on the table to show us, while the other one talked. Suddenly we realized we didn’t know where the PDA was. It was under the flyer, with his hand ready to take both as they walked away! Although Rome offers some of the most awesome art and architecture in the world, most of the city was dirty. If we were planning our first trip again, we would definitely go to Rome because it was a great opportunity to see all the historic sites. But it’s probably not one of the places we’ll travel to again.

The Wanderers Return - 10 Weeks in Europe - Part 1

Falling in Love with Spain
Although our homecoming from 70 days wandering around Europe is a few weeks old now, it seems that we are just now settling into some semblance of routine and beginning to catch up on projects like reporting on our travels. It was wonderful being back home and seeing all of our “hometown” friends, including Dale who helped take care of our house, Bob and Judy, who had returned earlier from their travels to various points in North America, Jim and Flora, who had returned from their latest world travels, and Jon and Emma, who have now returned from their trip to New Zealand, Australia, Fiji, Washington state, Virginia and various points in between. I saw a picture of Flora playing in her first snow, and I’m sure she was more excited than any little kid in snow for the first time! “Tell me everything,” one friend said upon our return. “What was the most interesting thing about your trip?” another asked. Both queries left me speechless, a condition not normal for me. Where does one begin? For me, it was my very first trip to Europe, a life-long dream. For Gene, it was his first time, except for a few brief business trips a few years back. We were both so excited and had so much fun that we were talking about where we want to go for our next trip long before we returned. And now that we are back in our wonderful home and familiar surroundings, we’re still having that conversation! We have clearly been bitten by the travel bug!
Our Adventure Begins
The countries we visited were Spain, Italy, Austria, Czech Republic, Germany and France.

The vast majority of our time was spent in Italy and Spain. We both fell in love with Madrid, where we started, but then loved Barcelona, too. The art, the architecture, wonderful old neighborhoods to walk, the tapas, the wine, the cafes, the coffee, the chocolaterias! We were surprised at how inexpensive it was to eat and drink (we did lots of it). In Madrid, we stayed at a beautifully renovated old hotel right on Plaza del Sol. We could open the french doors at night and listen the music in the plaza and the sounds of nighttime in Madrid. These people never ever sleep! In Barcelona, we stayed right on La Rambla
and had a wonderful time wandering and watching the mimes, the people, the flower vendors and bird sellers, the constant activity.
One man insisted on teaching me how and where to shop for antelope leather and wanted to make sure that, if I bought leather, I knew to buy antelope, not cow. It’s the most beautiful soft, light-weight stuff, and doesn’t become water-spotted when caught in the rain. Alas! There was no room in my back pack, and I didn’t think I’d get enough use out of it in Costa Rica to justify the purchase! Another man who we met while sitting on a bench on La Rambla wanted to discuss his urinary tract problems and his efforts to go to Florida for treatment! In both cities, we took the double-decker “Hop on the Bus” tours for overviews of the cities and a good look at the neighborhoods and architecture. Then we took off on our own to see the places we wanted to see more of, the museums, cathedrals,
etc. Once, trying to exit the Metro train in a crowd, I got caught when the doors started to close. Suddenly there were two big guys helping Gene pry the doors open so that I could get out. Another interesting experience! Our first train experience was on a hotel train to Barcelona, and we loved it! I could live in Madrid. I loved everything about it. Of course I could live in Barcelona, too! We left by night train for Italy, grateful that we would be returning to Spain at the end of our trip to see more. Spain had stolen our hearts.
href="http://bp1.blogger.com/_vIqxhkAv7CU/RbJ5oRNQkwI/AAAAAAAAAso/5Wg1gN_8KOE/s1600-h/IM001893.jpg">